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data-terms-univers="5574" data-countries="Greece" data-letter="Q" data-nid="1708"><div class="node__content"><div class="header-node-content"><p class="section-text is-arrow text-white"><span>观点</span></p><h1 class="title article-title">齐纳里咖啡馆，萨洛尼卡的奥斯曼帝国遗迹</h1><div class="section-text field field--name-field-description field--type-string-long field--label-hidden field__item">在希腊萨洛尼卡市的上城区，还可以找到最后一家奥斯曼风格的咖啡馆。室内装潢基本未变，但咖啡馆老板同时兼任理发师，偶尔还要充当牙医的时代已经一去不返了。如今，齐纳里咖啡馆也对女性开放，游客们蜂拥而至，在这个保留了丰富历史故事的地方拍照留念。</div><div class="content-date-wrapper"><div class="created-time"><span>13 April 2023</span></div><div class="updated-time"><span>Last update:</span><span>14 April 2023</span></div></div></div><div class="main-node-content"><div class="content-narrow"><div class="media-wrapper"><div class="media-image field field--name-field-ref-image field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden field__item"><article class="media media--type-image media--view-mode-medium"><div class="field field--name-field-media-image field--type-image field--label-hidden field__item"> <picture> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_desktop/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.webp?itok=tv-rnstT 1x" media="all and (min-width: 993px)" type="image/webp" width="610" height="411"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.webp?itok=gW9IdK76 1x" media="all and (min-width: 576px) and (max-width: 992px)" type="image/webp" width="700" height="472"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_mobile/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.webp?itok=vsn2xA1A 1x" media="all and (max-width: 575px)" type="image/webp" width="327" height="220"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_desktop/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.jpg?itok=tv-rnstT 1x" media="all and (min-width: 993px)" type="image/jpeg" width="610" height="411"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.jpg?itok=gW9IdK76 1x" media="all and (min-width: 576px) and (max-width: 992px)" type="image/jpeg" width="700" height="472"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_mobile/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.jpg?itok=vsn2xA1A 1x" media="all and (max-width: 575px)" type="image/jpeg" width="327" height="220"/> <img loading="eager" src="/sites/default/files/styles/paragraph_medium_desktop/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_01.jpg?itok=tv-rnstT" width="610" height="411" alt="COU-02-23-GA-TESSALONIQUE-01"/> </picture></div> </article></div><div class="media-footer"><div class="media-legend">The old fountain facing the Tsinari was a meeting point for the neighbourhood residents, providing the café not only with water but also with some of its clientele.</div><div class="media-copyright">© Stergios Karavatos</div></div></div><div class="field field--name-field-paragraphs field--type-entity-reference-revisions field--label-hidden field__items"><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>梅罗皮·阿纳斯塔西亚杜（Meropi Anastassiadou）</p><p>奥斯曼帝国（1430—1912年）的旧日光景在如今的萨洛尼卡已难寻踪迹。不过，还有一个地方能让人隐约感受到那个时代的日常生活气息——位于上城区克利乌斯街和亚历山德拉·帕帕多普卢街拐角处的齐纳里咖啡馆。</p><p>这家咖啡馆始建于1885年，第一任老板是一位名叫科塞（Köse，意为“无须者”）的土耳其穆斯林。当时的咖啡馆是一座明亮的四方形建筑，外墙全部用玻璃镶嵌，有两扇高大的玻璃窗，其中一扇通向依山而建的阴凉露台，另一扇通向街道。房间中央放着巨大的灰色铸铁柴炉，在冬日里散发出诱人的暖意。街对面有一个古老的喷泉，据说其历史可追溯到萨洛尼卡的征服者苏丹穆拉德二世（Sultan Murad II）（1404—1451年）时期。这座喷泉是附近居民的聚会场所，同时也为科塞和他店里的顾客提供水源。</p><p>齐纳里咖啡馆和整片社区都是以梧桐树命名的，但这种树至今也没能适应当地的环境。“齐纳里（<em>Tsinari</em>）”其实是土耳其语“<em>çınar</em>”的希腊语形式，意为“梧桐树”。咖啡馆旁边的小十字路口确实种着几棵树，洒下一片阴凉，但都不是梧桐树。20 世纪初拍的照片里也看不到它们。很久以前，这里或许到处生长着梧桐树，给这一带的地名留下了不可磨灭的印记。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div id="咖啡馆老板和理发师" class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="field field--name-field-title field--type-string field--label-hidden field__item"><h2>咖啡馆老板和理发师</h2></div><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>在科塞生活的年代，这一带的居民大多是穆斯林，有些人是公务员，就在几十米开外的县公署上班。那时，即便是受过教育、有学识的人群，也很少有条件在自己家里阅读报纸书籍。19世纪末，媒体大量涌现，带动公共阅览所风行一时。这家有着大片玻璃幕墙的咖啡馆会不会被用来方便个人或集体阅读，从而集阅览所和咖啡馆的功能于一身？鉴于咖啡馆在当时属于多用途空间，这个假设似乎合情合理。咖啡馆老板通常也是理发师，有时还兼任牙医。烟草燃烧带来的云雾缭绕是室内装饰的一部分，与咖啡相得益彰，正应了那句古希腊谚语：“没有香烟的咖啡，就像是没有亲吻的拥抱。”在齐纳里咖啡馆，那些想修胡子或是剪头发的顾客要找的人似乎不是店主，而是某个名叫伊斯梅尔（Ismail）的人，他的工具就放在咖啡馆的角落里。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph-border paragraph paragraph--type--quote paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="row"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>在奥斯曼帝国时代，齐纳里咖啡馆只接待男性顾客。</p></div></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>至少在奥斯曼帝国消亡之前，像齐纳里咖啡馆这样的社区店铺只接待男性顾客。很难确切地说清女性顾客什么时候开始走进了咖啡馆。即便不能去这些地方，女性也创造出了属于家庭空间的独特社交形式。她们在家里看咖啡渣占卜运势，为自己带来乐趣，就像男人享受聚在一起抽吸水烟或是下双陆棋那样。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div id="开胃菜、拉克酒和音乐" class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="field field--name-field-title field--type-string field--label-hidden field__item"><h2>开胃菜、拉克酒和音乐</h2></div><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>从20世纪20年代开始，社区的社会形态发生了翻天覆地的变化。1923年，希腊和土耳其经历了战后的人口互换，很多穆斯林在此时离开了。来自安纳托利亚的大批希腊裔东正教难民随即占据了萨洛尼卡上城区。宽敞的花园洋房不见了，取而代之的是几家人挤在一起的临时住房。背井离乡加上极端贫困，造成了经久不息、跨越时代的怀旧与苦涩。</p><p>齐纳里咖啡馆也易主了。现有资料显示，新任老板来自士麦那，除了卖咖啡，他还供应开胃菜和拉克酒——一种茴香味的传统酒精饮料。这位老板还在自家咖啡馆的露台上招待音乐家和举行政治会议。从此，齐纳里咖啡馆不再是那个适合放松和沉思的和平天堂了。在两次世界大战之间，希腊爆发了严重的经济危机，这个备受打击的国家需要表达不满，重新找到对自身的定义。与当时的许多咖啡馆一样，齐纳里咖啡馆也感受到了政治动荡带来的骚动不安。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph-border paragraph paragraph--type--quote paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="row"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>与经历了20世纪20年代的许多咖啡馆一样，齐纳里咖啡馆也感受到了政治动荡带来的骚动不安。</p></div></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>20世纪20年代过后，这一带的居民身份没再发生太大变化，来自小亚细亚的难民在随后的几十年里留了下来。20世纪90年代，来自前苏联的经济移民取代了他们的位置。这片区域所经历的贫困已经深深印入了当地的语言。在20世纪70年代的萨洛尼卡俚语中，“齐纳里”是指某人卖力打扮，要让自己“衣着考究”，结果却穿出了一身品位低下的艳俗行头。这个词已经过时了，英语中最接近的说法可能是“穿戴得像个稻草人”。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph-simple display-normal paragraph paragraph--type--media paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p> </p><p> </p></div><div class="wrapper-medias"><div class="field field--name-field-ref-submedia field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden field__items"><div class="field__item"><div class="submedia"><article class="media media--type-image media--view-mode-media-regular"><div class="field field--name-field-media-image field--type-image field--label-hidden field__item"> <picture> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/image_map_desktop/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.webp?h=be254a41&amp;itok=5wGZHBSn 1x" media="all and (min-width: 993px)" type="image/webp" width="610" height="406"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/medium_fixed_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.webp?h=be254a41&amp;itok=oAkNDDsI 1x" media="all and (min-width: 576px) and (max-width: 992px)" type="image/webp" width="700" height="466"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/image_map_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.webp?h=be254a41&amp;itok=0oG71h0T 1x" media="all and (max-width: 575px)" type="image/webp" width="327" height="218"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/image_map_desktop/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.jpg?h=be254a41&amp;itok=5wGZHBSn 1x" media="all and (min-width: 993px)" type="image/jpeg" width="610" height="406"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/medium_fixed_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.jpg?h=be254a41&amp;itok=oAkNDDsI 1x" media="all and (min-width: 576px) and (max-width: 992px)" type="image/jpeg" width="700" height="466"/> <source srcset="/sites/default/files/styles/image_map_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.jpg?h=be254a41&amp;itok=0oG71h0T 1x" media="all and (max-width: 575px)" type="image/jpeg" width="327" height="218"/> <img loading="eager" src="/sites/default/files/styles/image_map_tablet/article/2023-03/COU_02_23_WA_THESSALONIQUE_WEB_02.jpg?h=be254a41&amp;itok=0oG71h0T" width="327" height="218" alt="COU-02-23-GA-TESSALONIQUE-02"/> </picture></div> </article><div class="field field--type-string field--label-inline field--name-field-legende clearfix ">The Tsinari café interior has not changed much since 1885.</div><div class="field field--type-string field--label-inline field--name-field-copyright clearfix ">© Stergios Karavatos</div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div id="时间静止" class="paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="field field--name-field-title field--type-string field--label-hidden field__item"><h2>时间静止</h2></div><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>137年的悠久历史，构成了今天的齐纳里咖啡馆。这里依然供应咖啡，也提供食品和酒精饮料，顾客中有许多年轻人和妇女。从1990年开始经营齐纳里咖啡馆的家族意识到，这是萨洛尼卡遗产的重要组成部分，所以他们不能改变咖啡馆的建筑结构和用途。咖啡馆中的大柴炉每到夏季都会拆除，过后又会重新安装好。墙上挂满了褪色的照片和老物件，让人们能够看到和想象以往的时光。</p><p>咖啡馆对面的喷泉已经干涸，但游客还是会来这里拍照留念，附近出没的流浪猫相当抢镜。喷泉的楣饰带有罗马和拜占庭建筑风格，可以看到奥斯曼帝国时代留下的砖和已经斑驳磨蚀的水池，上面刻着一行希腊语铭文。若是忽略从这里驶往上城区的汽车，我们可以想象自己正站在130年前科塞咖啡馆的露台上。来到萨洛尼卡的土耳其游客也许会产生时间静止的错觉。这里依然存留着属于一座奥斯曼城市的芳香。而齐纳里咖啡馆无疑是奥斯曼帝国最真实的遗迹。</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="bg-bluelight boxed paragraph paragraph--type--rich-text paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="rich-text clearfix text-formatted field field--name-field-text field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>梅罗皮·阿纳斯塔西亚杜（Meropi Anastassiadou）<br/>巴黎国立东方语言文化学院（INALCO）当代史教授</p></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div class="paragraph-border paragraph paragraph--type--quick-link paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="field field--name-field-description field--type-string-long field--label-hidden field__item">拓展阅读：</div><div class="field field--name-field-links field--type-link field--label-hidden field__items"><div class="field__item"><a href="https://unesdoc.unesco.org/ark:/48223/pf0000102515_fre?posInSet=10&amp;queryId=cbb59850-b73f-41c2-b78d-739e866662ae"><div class="link-wrapper"><span class="arrow-primary"/><span class="link-title">《希腊，一座活的博物馆》（1996年）</span></div></a></div></div></div></div><div class="field__item"><div id="同期文章" class="paragraph paragraph--type--content-search-article paragraph--view-mode--default"><div class="paragraph-content-search content-search"><div class="field 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